Bicycling

Let The Music Play – The Katy Trail – Rhineland to Marthasville

Bicycle Trip People
On my recent bicycle journey from Kansas to Annapolis, I met quite a few really interesting folks. I’m doing a series of posts on these wonderful and interesting people, and this is an installment in that series. While there are others I met along the way as well, these are the ones who I was able to spend enough time with to get a feel for their story.

Let The Music Play
The September sunrise over Rhineland is stunning, and the breakfast Amanda lays out in front of us at The Doll House B&B is outstanding. We’re only riding about 25 or 30 miles today, so we’re in no hurry to start.

The Katy Trail – Rhineland to Marthasville spends a good bit of time right along the river, crossing lots of bridges, winding under bluffs much of the time. Then, for the last few miles before reaching Marthasville, it pulls back away from the river a bit, running along at the edge of the forest, where the hills come down to kiss the farmland of the floodplain.

We’re staying at the Concord House B&B, on the western edge of Marthasville. Maggie and George run a really neat B&B, with some fun twists that we don’t figure out until we’ve hung out for a while. There’s a nice hot tub out on their back porch, which everyone enjoys a bit of. I’ve never been able to take too much of a hot tub – I think they just heat me up too much. But I enjoy a few minutes of it before getting out, drying off, and enjoying a beautiful evening on a great back porch that wraps around the house like only southern architecture knows how to do well.

As the sun goes down, I discover a very cool little wine cellar hidden away below the house. Nobody mentions it or talks about it – it seems to be something left for you to discover if you want to. Read more »

The Katy Trail – Hartsburg to Rhineland

Bicycle Trip People
On my recent bicycle journey from Kansas to Annapolis, I met quite a few really interesting folks. I’m doing a series of posts on these wonderful and interesting people, and this is an installment in that series. While there are others I met along the way as well, these are the ones who I was able to spend enough time with to get a feel for their story.

Game Day
I think I passed the “high point” of the Katy Trail yesterday sometime, but who would know, since the whole thing is so flat! This section from Hartsburg to Marthasville is right in the middle of the trail, not really close to any large cities. This would be the section of the trail I’d expect to be used the least, and feel the most remote.

But this doesn’t pan out to be the case. Read more »

Cat Lady Of Hartsburg

Bicycle Trip People
On my recent bicycle journey from Kansas to Annapolis, I met quite a few really interesting folks. I’m doing a series of posts on these wonderful and interesting people, and this is an installment in that series. While there are others I met along the way as well, these are the ones who I was able to spend enough time with to get a feel for their story.

 

The Cat Lady of Hartsburg, MO
The pre-dawn air drips with moisture as I roll onto US50 headed east out of Warrensburg. It’s a warm wetness, not really rain, but a light mist that keeps the pavement damp.

I’d expected a reasonable road, good shoulder, and reasonably light traffic. I built this expectation by talking to a local cyclist in Sedalia.

Wrong. Read more »

Plain Dumb Courage

Bicycle Trip People
On my recent bicycle journey from Kansas to Annapolis, I met quite a few really interesting folks. I’m doing a series of posts on these wonderful and interesting people, and this is an installment in that series. While there are others I met along the way as well, these are the ones who I was able to spend enough time with to get a feel for their story.

Mike and Wei in Warrensburg
Day 2 of my cycling adventure from Kansas to Annapolis has me up before dawn, headed east on Highway 68. A headwind develops early, and builds through the day. Not a straight headwind, but a SE wind that quarters into my face.

When I stop for something to eat in Louisburg, I’m more than a little disappointed with the measly 30+ miles that I’ve ridden so far this morning. At a little over 50 miles, after some wonderful riding on some secondary roads that are deserted, I’m greeted with a neat “old town” feel in the town of Harrisonville, MO. I stop in a little c-store, and enjoy a visit with a guy and a gal who work there. I check my bearings with them regarding the best way to get to Warrensburg from here, and they seem baffled by the idea that there’s any way to get there other than going up to highway 50 and across. They’re not used to someone who’s looking for a way to avoid traffic. Read more »

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Rick In Kansas

Bicycle Trip People

On my recent bicycle journey from Kansas to Annapolis, I met quite a few really interesting folks. I’m doing a series of posts on these wonderful and interesting people, and this is an installment in that series. While there are others I met along the way as well, these are the ones who I was able to spend enough time with to get a feel for their story.

 

Rick in Kansas

My first day out on this leg of the trip started in Council Grove, Kansas, and ended up in Ottawa, Kansas. There isn’t a lot in-between. It’s a pretty lonely stretch of road – perfect for cycling really. On that first day, I had a cross wind, though it wasn’t terribly strong. I had trained well for this ride, and was feeling strong, so I pushed myself hard on that first day.

It was only about a 70 mile day, and while it was hot, it wasn’t over 100. I figured I was pretty safe pushing hard, and not at much risk regarding water. Read more »

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The Sweetness of Accomplishment

I’m back home this week, after finishing my bicycle trek across the country a week or so ago. I can’t take enough time off to do the whole trip in one year, so essentially did the western half last year, and the eastern half this year, with the little connector in Kansas the year before. All in all, a little shy of 4000 miles from coast to coast, something between 30 and 40 days of riding.

It was the trip of a lifetime really, with some tough days and some glorious days, a few ugly incidents, but those were vastly outweighed by the kindness and consideration shown me by people from one coast to the other. Read more »

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Cycling Sandbaggers

Borrowed from a cycling discussion board:

Cyclists are notorious sandbaggers. They’ll say anything to soften you up for the kill.

Don’t let this happen to you. Study this handy rider’s phrasebook to find out what they really mean when they say:

“I’m out of shape.”
Translation: I ride 400 miles a week and haven’t missed a day since the Ford administration. I replace my 11-tooth cog more often than you wash your shorts. My body fat percentage is lower than your mortgage rate.

“I’m not into competition. I’m just riding to stay in shape.”
Translation: I will attack until you collapse in the gutter, babbling and whimpering. I will win the sprint if I have to force you into a pine tree. I will crest this hill first if I have to grab your seat post, and spray energy drink in your eyes.

“I’m on my beater bike.”
Translation: I had this baby custom-made in Tuscany using Titanium blessed by the Pope. I took it to a wind tunnel and it disappeared. It weighs less than a fart and costs more than a divorce.

“It’s not that hilly.”
Translation: This climb lasts longer than a presidential campaign. Be careful on the steep sections or you’ll fall over — backward. You have a 39×23 low gear? Here’s the name of my knee surgeon.

“This is a no-drop ride.”
Translation: I’ll need an article of your clothing for the search-and-rescue dogs.

“It’s not that far.”
Translation: Bring your passport.

Cycling from Kansas to Annapolis

Later in 2012, I’m planning on completing the second half of my cycling pilgrimage across the US. I’ll start in eastern Kansas, crossing Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, and West Virginia. From there, I’m still working on the route, and would love some first-hand advice on whether to take a northern fork through Cumberland and then down into Annapolis from the north, (much like the RAAM route), or take it straight east and through the DC area.

For now, here’s the route that’s pretty well-defined:

The route uses the Katy Trail across Missouri, but other than that, stays on secondary highways for now.

The Acoustic Motorbike

Great Bicycle Song!

Lyrics to “The Acoustic Motorbike” in Middelburg

The day began with a rainbow in the sand
As I cycled into Kerry
Cattle grazing on a steep hillside
Looked well fed, well balanced
Close to the edge

Pedal on, pedal on, pedal on for miles
Pedal on
Pedal on, pedal on, pedal on for miles
Pedal on

I take a break, I close my eyes
And I’m happy as the dolphin
In a quiet spot talking to myself
Talking about the rain
Talking about the rain
All this rain

Pedal on
Pedal on, pedal on, pedal on for miles
Pedal on

You see whenever I’m alone
I tend to brood
But when I’m out on my bike
It’s a different mood
I leave my brain at home
Get up on the sattle
No hanging around
I don’t diddle-daddle Read more »

Bicycle Touring in West Virginia – Grafton to Romney

Day 14 – Grafton to Romney in West Virginia

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of a day across West Virgina. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

 Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

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Cycling in West Virginia – Parkersburg to Grafton

Day 13 – Parkersburg, WV to Grafton, WV – Cycling in West Virginia

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 13 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

Bicycle Touring in Ohio – Chillicothe to Parkerburg

Day 12 – Chillicothe, OH to Parkersburg, WV

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 11 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

 

 

Bicycle Touring in Ohio – Chillicothe

Day 11 – Resting in Chillicothe, OH

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

RIght now I’ve got a rest day planned in Chillicothe, because I thought it was a place folks went for weekends when I lived in Cincinnati. Problem is I can’t remember why folks went… Any thoughts on why Chillicothe’s a great place to spend a rest day, and what to do?

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Bicycle Touring in Ohio – Eaton to Chillicothe – Planned Day 10

Day 10 – Eaton, OH to Chillicothe, OH

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

I really need some feedback on this day – is US35 an OK road to ride? What about the route through Dayton?

Below is a map of Day 10 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

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Bicycle Touring in Indiana – Plainfield to Eaton, OH

Day 9 – Plainfield, IN to Eaton, OH

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 9 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

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Bicycle Touring in Illinois and Indiana – Planned Day 8

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 8 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

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Bicycle Touring in Illinois – Planned Day 7

Day 7 – Hamel, IL to Greenup, IL

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 7 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

 Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

Bicycle Touring in Missouri and Illinois – Planned Day 6

Day 6 – Marthasville, MO to Hamel, IL

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 6 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.  Read more »

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Bicycle Touring in Missouri – Planned Day 5

Day 5 – Resting in Marthasville, MO

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Day 5 will be a rest day along the Katy Trail in Marthasville. I’d love to hear from folks with suggestions on things to be sure not and miss is little Marthasville, MO.

Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

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Bicycle Touring in Missouri – Planned Day 4

Day 4 – Huntsdale, MO to Marthasville, MO

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 4 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes. Read more »

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Bicycle Touring in Missouri – Planned Day 3

Day 3 – Warrensburg, MO to Huntsdale, MO

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 3 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.

Thanks a ton for any suggestions that will make the route safer or more enjoyable, or things along the way that I’d regret missing. Of course, I’d welcome participation along the route as well. If you’d like to ride a section of it together, let me know, and we’ll see if we can coordinate schedules.

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Bicycle Touring in Kansas and Missouri – Planned Day 2

Day 2 – Ottawa, KS to Warrensburg, MO

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 2 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes.  Read more »

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Bicycle Touring in Kansas – Planned Day 1

Later in 2012, I’m planning a bicycle trip from Kansas to Annapolis. While I’m in the planning stages, I’d love to get input from folks familiar with individual portions of the route, with suggestions on changes I might want to make.

Below is a map of Day 1 of the trip. Also, here’s a link to the map on Google if you’d like to drag the route around with suggested changes. Read more »

Cycling in the West – Alamosa to Walsenburg

Bicycle Touring in the West
Day 18 – Alamosa to Walsenburg

“I only went out for a walk, and finally concluded to stay out till sundown, for going out, I found, was really going in.” 
  ~ John Muir

It’s a beautiful morning rolling east on 160 out of Alamosa. There’s a bit of damp air hanging close to the ground in places, feeling almost like a light fog – something we don’t see much of in Colorado. As we approach the Great Sand Dunes area off to our north, I realize that the hazy sky is most likely the result of fires they’ve been experiencing to our south in recent days and weeks. At times, I can actually smell a bit of smoke.

Smoke from fires in the high atmosphere, looking toward Great Sand Dunes

I know this is my last day of riding for this trip, and I’m more bummed than I thought I’d be. I find myself holding back and riding a bit slow – savoring the last tastes of the trip. Read more »

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Cycling in the West – Pagosa Springs to Alamosa

Bicycle Touring In The West
Day 17 – Pagosa Springs to Alamosa

“I’ve learned that everyone wants to live on top of the mountain, but all the happiness and growth occurs while you’re climbing it.”
  ~ Unknown

Pagosa Springs

Today we’re back to a little more mileage, but still a tad shy of a 100 mile day. We cross the Continental Divide this morning at Wolf Creek Pass. It’s a day I’ve looked forward to throughout the trip – as much as a test of my fitness as for the beauty of an 11,000’ pass. Read more »

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Cycling in the West – Durango to Pagosa Springs

Bicycle Touring in the West
Day 16 – Durango to Pagosa Springs

“Hope is definitely not the same thing as optimism. It is not the conviction that something will turn out well, but the certainty that something makes sense, regardless of how it turns out. 
  ~ Vaclav Havel

Durango is a big bicycle town. There are some world-class cyclists who hail from these parts, and I’ve heard many times of the great road cycling in the area. In addition, there’s a tremendous road cycling club in the area, and Ft Lewis College in Durango has what they bill as the “#1 cycling program in the nation”, with 17 national championships. There’s a really fun ride I try and do most years down here over Memorial Day – they call it the Iron Horse Classic and it’s a ride/race from Durango to Silverton where you’re racing the old Steam Engine up into the mountains. Lot’s of climbing, about 50 miles, and they close the road for a couple hours for the race.

Perhaps understandably, I have again set some expectations for the day. I’m imagining that cars in the area are accustomed to cyclists, and that the roads will accommodate safe riding. Read more »

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Cycling Through The West – Towaoc to Durango

Day 15 – Towaoc to Durango

“Earth teach me quiet ~ as the grasses are still with new light.
Earth teach me suffering ~ as old stones suffer with memory.
Earth teach me humility ~ as blossoms are humble with beginning.
Earth teach me caring ~ as mothers nurture their young.
Earth teach me courage ~ as the tree that stands alone.
Earth teach me limitation ~ as the ant that crawls on the ground.
Earth teach me freedom ~ as the eagle that soars in the sky.
Earth teach me acceptance ~ as the leaves that die each fall.
Earth teach me renewal ~ as the seed that rises in the spring.
Earth teach me to forget myself ~ as melted snow forgets its life.
Earth teach me to remember kindness ~ as dry fields weep with rain.”
  ~ A Ute Prayer

 

We’re riding at early light on a cool morning. There’s actually a little wisp of fog now and again on the road this morning – something I haven’t seen since I left the Pacific coast. I can feel the moisture in the air as it hydrates the membranes of my lungs and sinuses. I’m surprised at just how good it feels.

Colorado isn’t a place known for moist air. When folks come out to visit us in Colorado, they usually complain about how dry the air is. But this morning, as I begin to climb back into my home state, I’m struck by how much more humid it is than the desert air I’ve been riding through for the last couple weeks.

I didn’t expect to feel a sense of “homecoming” yet, but I’m feeling it this morning. There’s active irrigation along this highway, so the fields are green and lush on both sides of us as we ride. The sprinklers are running, pouring water across the green that surrounds us, sparkling like fountains of gems in the early morning light. In the distance, the peaks of the Rockies are growing closer and closer with each mile. I’m back in my home state, and it feels good.

Our day today is a short one. We want to get to Durango early enough to do laundry, so we started early, though not as early as we might have if we had a long day. When we revised our route, we thought about planning a rest day along southern Colorado somewhere, but decided instead to just plan short days. Yesterday was our last long mileage day at about 108 miles, and today and tomorrow are both only about 60 miles. In our original schedule, today’s miles were the last 60 miles of a 146 mile day. I’m happy we changed, so I could enjoy this stretch of road early in the morning.

A cyclist’s perspective on the wildlife in an area is often a reflection of the dead stuff we see smashed on the road as we roll past it. This morning, the roadkill is reflective of a big change in habitat. I’m seeing possum and raccoon, as well as a snake now and again. The moist environment created by the irrigation supports a whole new community of critters. Read more »

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Bicycling in the West – Kayenta to Towaoc

Bicycle Touring in the West – Day 14 – Kayenta to Towaoc

“Take a breath of the new dawn and make it a part of you.”
  ~ Hopi proverb

Today is a longer day for us, and we’re on the road before dawn. We’ve got a little over 107 miles to ride today, and if the wind’s not kind, it could be a long 107 miles. We feel confident that we’ll be able to find water every 25 or 30 miles, which puts our mind to ease that worse case, it’s just a long day.

At first we’re a little disappointed that we’re not on the road 30 minutes before we are because of the long day ahead of us. Riding east out of Kayenta, the landscape around us explodes into magical shapes and beautiful pre-dawn colors. As the sun washes across the mystical hills and rocks to our north, we stop often to take pictures of the breathtaking sunrise. By the time we’re 10 miles down the road, we realize how lucky we are that we didn’t leave earlier, or we would’ve missed a spectacular sunrise show.

Once again, I’m struck by just how much I treasure the early morning on a bicycle. The remainder of the day happens – sometimes good and sometimes less good. But dawn is universally spectacular, sometimes mind-numbingly so. This morning is one of those mind-numbingly beautiful mornings. Read more »

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Cycling Through the West – Tuba City to Kayena

Bicycling in the West – Day 13 – Tuba City to Kayenta

The desert flowers seemed to be in full bloom, and beautiful in the morning

 

 

 

“Time isn’t used, it’s experienced.”
~ Hopi Proverb

 

 

 

We’ve got an easy day ahead of us today – only 75 miles. Unless the wind is hard on us, we should get done in less than 8 hours. We take our time and enjoy breakfast, and meet some interesting folks as we’re walking out of Denny’s.

It’s a small group of folks – sounds like just 2 couples plus an extra person. They’ve got a truck with a trailer, and the trailer holds a couple of little Vespa-type scooters. The women ride the scooters along the highway, and the men follow along in the truck. When they get tired of “scooting”, the men pick them up and trailer the scooters. It’s a grand adventure for them. They’ve always wanted to take a trip like this along the highways of the Southwest. When they hit the high plains of Texas in a few days, they’ll just ride in the truck to avoid the heat.

I’m curious about why the little scooters rather than just everyone taking motorcycles? Well, a good part of the reason seems to be that the scooters are so much more fuel efficient. Plus, they’re cute. That’s important for sure… Read more »

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Cycling Across The West – Sedona to Tuba City in Arizona

Bicycling Across the West
Day 12 – Sedona to Tuba City in Arizona

“What is life? It is the flash of a firefly in the night. It is the breath of a buffalo in the wintertime. It is the little shadow which runs across the grass and loses itself in the sunset.”
~ Crowfoot

Today I meet my friend Dave, and we complete the rest of the ride together. Our original plan was to meet at the Grand Canyon and ride from there. However, we’ve talked on the phone and changed our route a bit in response to concern over a section of road we were going to ride on. The road we’re concerned about is Highways 163 and 162 in Arizona and Utah, which takes us through Monument Valley. Dave’s experience on the road as he was driving down to his starting point was that it was very narrow, lots of curves, no shoulder, and lots of RVs.

We’re both fine with all of that – down to the RV part. My experience with the lack of safety and courtesy on the part of RV drivers so far on this trip has me pretty concerned about that section, and Dave feels the same way. So we modified our planned route, and I’m meeting Dave in Flagstaff this morning. From here, we’ll ride to Tuba City today. I’m clearly upset that we’re compelled – out of fear of our lives – to change our route because so many RV users are either incompetent or inconsiderate drivers. But it is what it is.

Riding through this upcoming section, the thing that makes bicycle trip routing difficult is the space between towns. There are only so many places where a motel exists, and we need to be able to fit a daily ride somewhat neatly between those spots. Our original plan, in fact, included a 140 mile day because of that difficulty. That’s a long day in the desert if the winds aren’t kind… Our new route keeps most of our days down to a little under 100 miles, though there’s one or two that go over 100 miles. Read more »

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