Category: Bicycle Trip People

Day 12, Pilgrim Spokes – Eastern Indiana

Across The Eastern Half Of Indiana

A drizzly day accompanies me along the roads and secondary highways of eastern Indiana. I cross the suburbs south if Indy, then make my way along a cultural seam that makes it clear that I’ve found the Mason-Dixon line.

Lunch in Knightstown, IN is quite an affair at the Knightstown Diner, and Kevin (the proprietor) introduces me to a cafe packed with Red Hat Ladies listening to some ragtime being pounded out at the piano in the corner.

Highlights of the days reflections include thoughts on flags, nationalism, Pastor Ed, Quakers and deer. The day ends with me finding Dave again, in Richmond, IN. From here to the east coast, Dave and I will be riding together again.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Flags along the Mason Dixon
Deer along the old road
Indiana Backroad

The indomitable, unstoppable, in·de·fat·i·ga·ble Ted.

Another year, another MS150 ride, another instance of amazement at my friend Ted

Ted’s my riding buddy. Fifteen or twenty years ago, he got me back into bike riding in a serious way. We started riding the MS150 together, and it’s become an annual tradition for us.

Ted’s been training hard this year, getting into pretty great shape. He decided we’d do the century option on Day 1 of the MS150 here in Colorado last Saturday, and I had no doubt he’d do it well and fast. It was me I worried about. My longest ride of the year so far had been 65 miles, and I’d done very little climbing. So of course, as I expected, once we started getting into the hills on Saturday, Ted took off and I didn’t see him for a while – not until the hills were over somewhere around 85 miles into the day, and I caught up to him as he napped under a tree, waiting for me at a rest stop.

Sunday wasn’t much easier, as Ted felt compelled to chase down every young lion who passed him, catching them just for the fun of it, then waiting for me to catch up. Although there was no century option on Sunday, (thank god for that), Ted pushed our pace all morning, and they weren’t even finished setting up lunch when we hit that stop. We finished the ride by 10:30 in the morning. Needless to say, there were very few people there by that time…

So not that big a story really, until you realize that Ted is 74 years old. Of course, here in Colorado, us old guys ride a lot, and some of us are reasonably good riders. I generally don’t think of myself as a slouch on a bike – I’m 62 and recently cycled across the country for example – but there was no way I could keep up with Ted over the weekend.

Ted, at 74, was chasing down the ones he calls the young lions… And catching them.

Not bad for an old guy, right?

But wait, there’s more, says the man with a tiny little fishing rig in his hand…

Did I mention this – Ted has Leukemia. Was diagnosed close to 20 years ago, and has gone through several rounds of chemo in that time.

So here’s to the old guys – the ones who are indefatigable.

in·de·fat·i·ga·ble
ˌindəˈfadəɡəb(ə)l/
adjective
adjective: indefatigable
  1. (of a person or their efforts) persisting tirelessly.
    “an indefatigable defender of human rights”

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Day 10, Pilgrim Spokes – Across Central Illinois

Greenville, IL to Terre Haute, IN along the Old National Road by bicycle

 

I begin my tenth day of riding in Pilgrim Spokes in Greenville, IL. It’s a chilly 39 degrees (F) as I begin my ride, and I’m on the Old National Road (US-40) within the first hour of riding. I’ll generally follow this old historic highway most of the way to the east coast.

  • I explore my first covered bridge (The Jackson Truss Covered Bridge) of the trip on this day, in Greenup along the Old Cumberland Road.
  • I enjoy a windy lunch in Effingham.
  • I get to see the largest wind chimes in the world in Casey.
  • I get to meet Mary, who’s riding her bike from Annapolis to Colorado.
  • I get to meet three other wonderful young people riding from Indiana to Colorado. In Pilgrim Spokes, I think I might refer to them as hippies, and I use that term with positive and affectionate intent, in memory of my own (possibly slightly hippyish) youth.
  • I continue to enjoy miles and miles and miles of Midwest farmland. Oh, and flat… Kansas has nothin’ on this stretch of Illinois for flat!

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Wonderful flat Midwestern farmland abounds across Illinois
The old Jackson Truss Covered Bridge in Greenup, Illinois.
The world's largest wind chimes in Casey, IL.

Day 6, Pilgrim Spokes – The Katy Trail

The Katy Trail from Hartsburg to Rhineland

My first full day on the Katy Trail takes me from Hartsburg to Rhineland, where we stay at The Doll House B&B. We pedal along a gorgeous tree lined trail through tiny little burgs. The trail falls out along the river plain occasionally, then tucks back into woods that open now and then to farm fields on one side or the other. Beautiful dives through occasional cut banks, and fun crossings of creeks on old bridges just add to the wonder of another great day of leisurely riding.

The Katy Trail is truly a national treasure, and I enjoy the many conversations I have with folks along the trail almost as much as I enjoy the riding itself. This is the first of a couple days I spend riding at a relaxed and conversational pace with good friends who I’ve known most of my life.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

One of many old bridges along the Katy Trail
The Katy Trail often moves treats the rider to wonderful glides beside the Missouri River
While meandering often through tunnels through the deciduous tree canopy, there are many miles where the trail opens to farmland on one side or the other.

Day 5, Pilgrim Spokes – Off The Road and Onto the Katy Trail

From a crummy morning in rain and heavy traffic to a delightful coast onto the Katy Trail

Now in Missouri, my day starts in Warrensburg, along a very busy US-50 into Sedalia. My day ends well into the Katy Trail, with friends who I’ll spend the next couple days with at a leisurely pace along this national treasure of a rail trail.

  • I’m once again impressed by the warmth and friendliness of Midwesterners, as a young woman stops her car in the rain and offers to help me as I fix a flat.
  • Breakfast at the Sunrise Cafe reminds me that I’m entering a part of the country where cigarette smoking in a diner is socially acceptable.
  • A missed shift causes me to get help, taking me back to a bike shop in Sedalia before moving along to Hartsburg.
  • I meet Dan and Susan who’re traversing the Katy Trail on their Tandem, and we chat about careers and marriage, and what it takes to make either last.
  • Arriving at The Globe Hotel, I meet Rick, who doesn’t have a thing for cats, and for whom cats likewise have no thing.
  • I’m pleased to recall the story of “please” in Cincinnati… Please, you say?
  • It’s Thursday, so no food is available in town. Well, except the pizza. Because it’s Thursday.
  • Did I mention the cats?

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Sunrise along US-50 after riding through drizzle for the first hour of pre-dawn light.
Onto the Katy Trail
One of many cut banks along the Katy Trail

Day 4, Pilgrim Spokes – Eastern Kansas and Western Missouri

Out of the prairie, into the woods

Though this is the fourth day of riding recounted in Pilgrim Spokes, it’s the second day of riding for me on this final leg of the journey. I begin my day at Ottawa in eastern Kansas, and make my way east into hills that roll a bit more and trees that are less and less sparse with each mile.

I meet some fun people on this day, including my first encounter with fellow cross-country cyclists. Highlights include:

  • A young couple who run a convenience store in Harrisonville who struggle with the concept that someone would be riding their bicycle 100 miles, let alone across the country.
  • James and Lei, a couple of fellow cross-country cyclists, one of whom had never ridden a bike in his life before having a new bike shipped to the west coast, flying out to meet it, strapping gear on it, and beginning the punishing trek east. Really.
  • Jeremy at the bike store in Warrensburg, who’s takes my blog information to pass onto his folks, (who’re my age presumably), thinking they might get out and exercise more. Apparently he’s astounded that an old fart like me can gather the wits to make a bike stay upright, not to mention ride it across the country.
  • Several miles of unintended gravel road – big chunks of gravel that are awful on road tires. (One of the disadvantages of picking routes myself rather than using routes from somewhere like Adventure Cycling was that I ended up on a couple sections of road like this for short distances.)

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Another beautiful sunrise in Kansas - My last Kansas sunrise as I cross the border into Missouri.
Typical small midwestern town, this one is Harrisonville I think.
The advantage of picking routes myself is I get to end up on beautiful backcountry roads like this.

Day 3 – Cottonwood Falls to Ottawa

Out of the Flint Hills and into eastern Kansas

A fog hangs just above us as we begin our next day before dawn, continuing north in the heart of the Flint Hills along K-177. It’s a chapter of transition in Pilgrim Spokes, as the actual chronology of the ride was such that 2 years elapsed between the morning ride and the completion of the day in Ottawa. I couldn’t take the month+ off work to complete the cross-country journey in a single year, so needed to split it up. Dave had the same issue, so our miles across the country were broken chronologically in such a way that we rode about half the journey together and about half of it alone.

But this day of transition is more than just about chronology, as I explore in Pilgrim Spokes. Highlights include:

  • A foggy start through the beautiful Flint Hills shrouded in mist.
  • Breakfast at the Saddle Rock Cafe.
  • That point of transition where on Ride 1 Dave and I continue north through the Flint Hills, and back out into Western Kansas.
  • Ride 2 which I pick up in this section, experiencing a second Kansas sunrise, this time alone.
  • Riding east out of the Flint Hills on the first day of the final leg of the journey.
  • Talking to Jeff in Osage City, and his experience getting hit by a pickup truck while cycling.
  • Dinner with Bubba in Ottawa.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Morning ride through the Flint Hills
Flint Hills farmstead
Sunrise in eastern Kansas headed east on the final leg of the journey

A Bad Road – Cycling US40 in Pennsylvania

Day 34 – St Clairsville to Grantsville – Cycling US40

118 miles, 13:05 elapsed time, 9.5 hours pedaling, 11,400 ft elevation gain, 8400 calories burned

The pre-dawn morning air chills us, up high on a hill overlooking the area surrounding St Clairsville, mounting up for another day in the saddle. The coming sunrise spills warm orange and rich reds across the sky. The view across the hilltops is breathtaking, and we take a few pictures, knowing full well these aren’t the kind of shots that translate into anything other than “ho-hum” if you’re not standing there.

With this chilly air, I’d love to have bit of climbing to warm my joints and muscles as a beginning to the day. However, as soon as we leave town, we begin a two-mile descent steep enough to require quite a bit of braking. It’s cold enough I’m uncertain about potential icy spots on the road as we fall into the coldest air at the base of the descent, where the road crosses the old Blaine Hill Bridge over Wheeling Creek.

The old Blain Hill Bridge after descending through the chilly morning air
The old Blain Hill Bridge after descending through the chilly morning air

It won’t be the last time today I’ll wish for another layer of warmth…

The road follows Wheeling Creek for several miles, meandering through old towns and past 200 years of history few people remember. It’s early in the morning on a Sunday, so traffic is extremely light, giving us a chance to stop and take lots of photo’s as we cross the Ohio River twice. The second crossing uses the old Wheeling Suspension Bridge.

Dave As We Follow The Creek
Dave As We Follow The Creek
Dave Crossing The Old Wheeling Suspension Bridge
Dave Crossing The Old Wheeling Suspension Bridge

This is a beautiful old bridge, built in the middle of the 19th century. It spent two years as the longest suspension bridge in the world, and was the first bridge across the Ohio River. Dave and I walk the bridge, taking lots of photos, soaking in the history and beauty of the place.

In Wheeling, we begin to rely heavily on the maps I planned and loaded into my Garmin. Prior to this as we’ve crossed the country, we’ve just used these maps as a backup – something to get us back on track if we stray to far from our route in our meandering. Here is Wheeling, we just take whatever turns the Garmin tells us to take, and are rewarded with a wonderful ride through town, following an excellent bicycle path for several miles along an old railroad grade, dropping us off in Elm Grove east of Wheeling. Continue reading “A Bad Road – Cycling US40 in Pennsylvania”

Columbus to St Clairsville in Ohio – Cycling in Ohio

Day 33 – Columbus to St Clairsville

Eastern Ohio

Next morning it’s about 200% humidity as we roll our bikes out of the Comfort Inn at Obetz and saddle-up. I slept nearly zero last night, as there is apparently a softball tournament in town, and there was lots of party spirit all around us. All night. Suffice it to say that I’m making zero effort to be quiet as I’m getting ready to leave at 5:30 in the morning…

Meandering east and north through the suburbs east of Columbus, we eventually make our way back up to Old 40 as it parallels I-70. It’s a four-lane highway that’s essentially deserted of cars. I realize it’s a Saturday morning, which could account for the low traffic volume, but it looks like a highway that doesn’t see much use. After a few miles, the road narrows back down to 2 lanes, and begins to feel very much like The Old National Pike.

Historic OhioIt strikes me that right here, this morning, the road around me has shifted a bit in historical time. It was the early 1800’s when this old Pike was commissioned by a young nation, and the remains of history that old is becoming evident. Back then, this was considered “the West”, being “tamed” by this new road reaching out and offering a path for commerce and expansion. Today, as I ride my bike along the pleasant old road, up and down the increasing hills, I’ve entered “the East”.

Continue reading “Columbus to St Clairsville in Ohio – Cycling in Ohio”

Bike Paths in Ohio

Day 32 – Richmond to Columbus in Ohio – Bike Paths in Ohio

Ohio Sunrise

It’s a low foggy mist as we roll our bikes out of our room at the Knight’s Inn at Richmond in the pre-dawn darkness. Riding east through town along the Old National Road, we stop for calories at a c-store at the intersection with I-70, lamenting the late starts that go with cycling in September.

While traffic is heavier than we’d like, the fog lifts it’s skirts a few miles out of Richmond, and we’re treated to a rich and lustrous sunrise over the fields of western Ohio. The thick air adds a muted quality to the beauty, and the traffic shrivels in my mind as I let myself fall into the unfolding wonder along the horizon. I’m at the top of a rise, with a long, gentle downhill slope in front of me. There’s a farmstead on the right side of the road, a modern silo and grain machinery reaching up through the light mist that lays across the field. The rich reds and oranges of the morning sky pour themselves over this bucolic scene.

A sailor might take warning at this red morning sky. In the back of my mind I know it could foretell the rainy day the forecasters are predicting. In my heart and soul, this unforgettable morning sky is one more reminder of how lucky I am to be out here, in and amongst the universe as it unfolds.

Ohio Sunrise

Every day the sun rises, often in the sort of spectacle I’m witness to this morning. If the sunrise isn’t particularly wonderful, then perhaps it’s the sunset. If not the sunset, then maybe some other magical nugget the world is sharing. Soaked in the beauty of the morning, I realize that beauty like this only feels rare to me because my life keeps me focused on the little details in front of me every day. I get up, have my breakfast, commute to work, pour my energy into something there… Continue reading “Bike Paths in Ohio”