Tag: cross country cycling

Day 16, Pilgrim Spokes – Into Maryland

A beautiful autumn morning in western Maryland and a broken chain

Our morning ride out of Grantsville begins with a stunning sunrise over the historic Casselman Bridge as we pedal out of town, followed by mile upon mile of pastoral surroundings as we make our way toward Cumberland, which is the perfect salve to heal our memories of our “day from hell” on the previous day.

After a hearty breakfast of chicken fried steak in the little town of Frostburg, we glide down into Cumberland, then begin a day of up and down climbing as we make our way along friendly and lightly travelled roads into the town of Hancock late in the afternoon, where we pick up a bicycle trail to follow for five or ten miles. It’s a beautiful ride along the trail with dappled shadows dancing beneath our tires, and it ends too quickly as we find our way back over to US 40. Soon afterwards, Dave breaks a chain as he’s climbing a little hill, offering us our first real mechanical breakdown of the trip all the way across the country. Some minor surgery puts his chain back in shape, and we’re off to complete our ride into the town of Hagerstown.

We find an “all you can eat” Chinese place close to our hotel and enjoy a hearty supper over our daily discussion of the excellent day of riding we just experienced.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Day 15, Pilgrim Spokes – Western Pennsylvania

Our Day From Hell

 

The one consistent bit of advice I got for the eastern half of the country was to avoid riding on the highways in western Pennsylvania. Especially US-40. But after a particularly good day yesterday, we decided to go ahead and US-40 a try. How bad could it be, anyway?

By the end of the day we’d been assaulted with empty beer bottles from a passing pickup truck, ridden 118 miles, and climbed nearly 12,000 feet. I was bruised, battered, and bone tired as we finished the day well after dark, riding steep and hilly roads while the temperature plummeted to below 40 degrees F.

One large pizza (covered with every kind of meat available) and a hot shower fixed me right up. But it’s a day I won’t ever forget. Probably the hardest (and worst) day of riding between the Pacific and the Atlantic, sandwiched between two wonderful days.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Day 14, Pilgrim Spokes – Eastern Ohio

Finding Dave Again

It’s a delightful day of riding 131 miles through the rolling hills of eastern Ohio. We’re chased by thunderstorms across the final ten miles or so  into the wonderful old town of St Clairsville. We enjoy local gossip over lunch at Juanita’s in Zanesville just before crossing the historic “Y-Bridge” there in town. Looking back on the trip across the country, this day is clearly one of my favorites. A beautiful day gliding through beautiful rolling countryside, feeling strong at the end of a long day. The day ends with Dave and I making the worst decision of our trip, fueled by an arrogance born from a sense of strength, lots of protein, and a couple beers. We’ll pay for that decision the next day in the hills of western Pennsylvania.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Day 13, Pilgrim Spokes – Western Ohio

Finding Dave Again

We ride 123 miles across central Ohio, experiencing what might be the most spectacular sunrise of the entire journey as the fog and mist lift over western Ohio. A wonderful breakfast at Waffle House with a group of Amish caps a perfect morning, then I get us a little lost heading through Dayton, but we end up in the right place to ride for many miles along a wonderful paved bike trail. In London we meet Bicycle Bob (or Bicycle Bill?), who seems to be an unlikely town elder. Our day ends with a large dose of very rude drivers around Columbus, and a sleepless night thanks to a softball team full of party passion on our floor at the hotel.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Day 10, Pilgrim Spokes – Across Central Illinois

Greenville, IL to Terre Haute, IN along the Old National Road by bicycle

 

I begin my tenth day of riding in Pilgrim Spokes in Greenville, IL. It’s a chilly 39 degrees (F) as I begin my ride, and I’m on the Old National Road (US-40) within the first hour of riding. I’ll generally follow this old historic highway most of the way to the east coast.

  • I explore my first covered bridge (The Jackson Truss Covered Bridge) of the trip on this day, in Greenup along the Old Cumberland Road.
  • I enjoy a windy lunch in Effingham.
  • I get to see the largest wind chimes in the world in Casey.
  • I get to meet Mary, who’s riding her bike from Annapolis to Colorado.
  • I get to meet three other wonderful young people riding from Indiana to Colorado. In Pilgrim Spokes, I think I might refer to them as hippies, and I use that term with positive and affectionate intent, in memory of my own (possibly slightly hippyish) youth.
  • I continue to enjoy miles and miles and miles of Midwest farmland. Oh, and flat… Kansas has nothin’ on this stretch of Illinois for flat!

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Wonderful flat Midwestern farmland abounds across Illinois
The old Jackson Truss Covered Bridge in Greenup, Illinois.
The world's largest wind chimes in Casey, IL.

Day 9, Pilgrim Spokes – Southwestern Illinois

A Little Drizzle, a Little Misery, Some Perspective

My night in the Butler’s Quarters at the Beall Mansion was delightful, and my next day begins with a drizzly ride down the Great River Trail along the Mississippi as I leave Alton and begin my journey through Illinois. Eventually I find my way along several miles of the Madison County Transit Nickel Plate Trail through Edwardsville.

The morning drizzle is light, but continues to get heavier all the way to Alhambra, where I transition from the trail over to the highway for the final miles of the day. It’s a miserable ride though the cold rain, making my room at the B&B in Greenville even more inviting.

This chapter in Pilgrim Spokes allowed me to do a little storytelling of a winter night in the mountains of Arkansas from years ago, when Bubba and me got our 18-wheeler stuck high on a mountain and survived freezing rain and a long walk out. I also explore that whole “the darkness defines the light” thing, or maybe something more like “it’s only through misery that we can truly appreciate joy.”

Best summed up, I suppose, in this quote that I include in the book:

The lust for comfort murders the passions of the soul.  ~Khalil Gibran

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Leaving the Alton Bridge behind, riding along the Great River Trail
Long straight miles along the Madison County Transit Nickel Plate Trail
Another beautiful midwestern farmstead along the trail, this one in the drizzle of a rainy day.

Day 8, Pilgrim Spokes – Across The Mighty Mississippi

The Final Section of The Katy Trail, and Back Onto Roads

Breakfast with George (at the Concord Hill Bed and Breakfast) was one of the most fun chapters to write in Pilgrim Spokes, and starts my final day on the Katy Trail out wonderfully.  I leave the leisurely pace I’ve enjoyed over the past couple days with my good friends behind, kicking into the last 50 miles or so with a strong pace that takes me to Alton after crossing the mighty Mississippi River on a beautiful modern bridge.

The town of Augusta calls me heavily, a bar and grill hanging invitingly out toward the trail, but I resist. However, the Ted Drewes I pass is beyond my ability to fly past, and I stop to enjoy what folks in St Louis are convinced is the best frozen custard on earth.

Further up the road I meet some new folks and enjoy a break in the old river town of St Charles, which many folks mistakenly think is the eastern end of the Katy Trail. In reality, the trail extends another 12 miles or so beyond St Charles, and after a little lunch I continue the deserted section of trail, not seeing another human being until after I exit the trail and get onto the roads along the flood plain.

After crossing a beautiful modern bridge across the mighty Mississippi, I find my way to the Beall Mansion Bed and Breakfast Inn, where Jim welcomes me and shows me up to the Butler’s Quarters. This is another transition point for me, leaving friends behind and kicking my pace up, out alone on the highway again.

Pedal, Breathe, Smile, and Enjoy…

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

I just can't get enough of how pretty the trail is when it glides along beside the river.
A cut corn field east of St Charles along the Katy Trail
The bridge across the mighty Mississippi at Alton

Day 7, Pilgrim Spokes – The Katy Trail in Missouri’s Heartland

From Rhineland to Marthasville, this is the heart of the Katy Trail

Another glorious day of riding along the Katy Trail, with a little bit of everything the trail has to offer. The day begins with breakfast at The Doll House Bed and Breakfast and ends with a wonderful experience with some neighborhood musicians at the Concord Hill Bed and Breakfast.

This little section of the trail seems to bloom with an undercurrent of music. Not only are we treated to great music at George and Maggie’s Concord Hill B&B, but we’re lucky enough to bump into Doug in Bluffton, who’s outside working in his yard as we pass. Doug runs the Rendleman Home B&B there in Bluffton. Which seems like a fun little place where music happens most every evening. As it turns out, as of the writing of this post, it appears that Doug’s B&B is no longer in business.

Highlights include:

  • A beautiful Missouri sunrise on the back porch.
  • The trail crosses many RR bridges, again working back and forth between the Missouri River and forest edged cultivated fields.
  • A secret hideaway down in the cellar at George and Maggie’s place.
  • A chance (and briefly intimate) encounter and with a beautiful old Martin D-35.
  • Regret fueled by self-consciousness.
  • Sweet music drifting into the windows from the jammin’ going on below.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Beautiful cuts through the limestone are common
One of many old farmsteads along the trail
One more of many tunnels and bridges along the Katy Trail

Day 6, Pilgrim Spokes – The Katy Trail

The Katy Trail from Hartsburg to Rhineland

My first full day on the Katy Trail takes me from Hartsburg to Rhineland, where we stay at The Doll House B&B. We pedal along a gorgeous tree lined trail through tiny little burgs. The trail falls out along the river plain occasionally, then tucks back into woods that open now and then to farm fields on one side or the other. Beautiful dives through occasional cut banks, and fun crossings of creeks on old bridges just add to the wonder of another great day of leisurely riding.

The Katy Trail is truly a national treasure, and I enjoy the many conversations I have with folks along the trail almost as much as I enjoy the riding itself. This is the first of a couple days I spend riding at a relaxed and conversational pace with good friends who I’ve known most of my life.

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

One of many old bridges along the Katy Trail
The Katy Trail often moves treats the rider to wonderful glides beside the Missouri River
While meandering often through tunnels through the deciduous tree canopy, there are many miles where the trail opens to farmland on one side or the other.

Day 5, Pilgrim Spokes – Off The Road and Onto the Katy Trail

From a crummy morning in rain and heavy traffic to a delightful coast onto the Katy Trail

Now in Missouri, my day starts in Warrensburg, along a very busy US-50 into Sedalia. My day ends well into the Katy Trail, with friends who I’ll spend the next couple days with at a leisurely pace along this national treasure of a rail trail.

  • I’m once again impressed by the warmth and friendliness of Midwesterners, as a young woman stops her car in the rain and offers to help me as I fix a flat.
  • Breakfast at the Sunrise Cafe reminds me that I’m entering a part of the country where cigarette smoking in a diner is socially acceptable.
  • A missed shift causes me to get help, taking me back to a bike shop in Sedalia before moving along to Hartsburg.
  • I meet Dan and Susan who’re traversing the Katy Trail on their Tandem, and we chat about careers and marriage, and what it takes to make either last.
  • Arriving at The Globe Hotel, I meet Rick, who doesn’t have a thing for cats, and for whom cats likewise have no thing.
  • I’m pleased to recall the story of “please” in Cincinnati… Please, you say?
  • It’s Thursday, so no food is available in town. Well, except the pizza. Because it’s Thursday.
  • Did I mention the cats?

A cross-country bicycle adventure is the canvas for this tale of discovery along the winding backroads of America’s heartland. The second book in the “Cycling Reflections” series, Pilgrim Spokes tells the story of the eastern half of the trans-American trek, continuing the saga begun in Neil’s award-winning previous book—Pilgrim Wheels—which reconnoiters the western half of the journey.

More than just a journal of a bike ride across the country, Hanson’s delightful and beautifully written story takes the reader on an engaging pilgrimage of observation and reflection. Often hilarious, sometimes poignant, and always inspiring, it’s a must-read adventure that will stir your soul.

Three Top Images From The Day

Sunrise along US-50 after riding through drizzle for the first hour of pre-dawn light.
Onto the Katy Trail
One of many cut banks along the Katy Trail